|
|
|
Suburban footpeg extender
This kit puts the standard footpegs about 3/4 inch forward and about 3/4 inch lower. This means you have to reach slightly "up" for the shift lever and rear brake, but I actually like that because it forces me to keep my right foot alongside the brake (and I therefore can't "ride" it). Are they worth it? Since ANY leg extension is an improvement to me, I think they are. |
|
|
|
J-Peg open
These are GREAT! Because of the little hook at the end, your foot sort of locks in place OR lay your leg on top of it. I only use one at a time, allowing me to shift my weight from side to side every 20-30 minutes. I suggest putting some kind of black "grip" paper around the center part of the peg. |
|
|
|
Valentine 1 "stealth" mounted
The V1 is a great radar detector, but since it is NOT waterproof, and is valuable enough not to be left out in the open, I chose to install it hidden away in the side case. As many other LT owners will attest, the ONLY thing you lose doing this is laser detection. It still seems to pick up all forms of regular radar just as well this way as out in the open (and some claim better rear protection than dash mounting because it isn't blocked by your body). |
|
|
|
V1 remote audio & visual displays under RCU shelf
If you install your V1 radar detector in the side or top case, you'll need a remote display to see when it goes off, and an audio unit to beep at you (you can also plug this into your Autocomm). These aren't valuable enough for anyone to steal, so I never remove them. However, they are not totally waterproof, so in heavy rain (or when you wash the bike), be sure to remove them (they just unplug using phone jacks).
|
|
|
|
|
Fat Foot "stealth" painted
The Fat Foot is such a good idea to expand the LT's sidestand footprint, but it comes in obnoxious silver. A little black spray paint, and no one notices it at all. |
|
|
|
Fat Foot filed down
The Fat Foot increases the LT's sidestand footprint by about double. However, it means you will drag a little sooner on heavy leaning left turns. Not to worry -- it's fun "filing" it down on that side to the point of the stock stand's foot. |
|
|
|
Hines mount for SPIII GPS
Doug Hines' mounting plate creates a nice flat surface atop the LT's radio console. If you cover that with "super velcro" (mushrooms on both sides), you can stick almost anything on there. |
|
|
|
SP-III GPS atop Hines mount with sunshade
Paul Sayegh designed this sunshade, which really helps on bright sunny days (not that we get that many of them in Seattle...) |
|
|
|
|
PIAA 1100X driving lights
These are great lights, and are inobtrusive and subtle mounted inside the faring like this. |
|
|
|
Autoswitch indicator for PIAAs
The green light is the Autoswitch indicator for the PIAAs. The Autoswitch is tied into the high beam "flash" button, and the lights are activated by holding that button down for several seconds. |
|
|
|
RKA Expandable tank bag
This is a great bag, with soft padding under the straps so it doesn't scratch the paint. I highly recommend the Expandable version. As you can see, it can be used without expanding, but once in awhile that extra space is really handy. Comes with an elasticized rain cover that's easy to slap on when needed. |
|
|
|
RKA side bag
These are really nice bags. Note how it sticks out into the dead space of the door to utilize that space. Has a carrying strap so it's easy to haul it into hotels at night. |
|
|
|
|
Hyperlites
These flash (RED) on and off when brakes are applied. After flashing for about 10 seconds, they just glow solid red until the brakes are released. |
|
|
|
3-Way Hyperlites
These have a dual function. The red stays on all the time as driving lights, but flashes (like regular Hyperlites) when brakes are applied. In addition, the yellow LEDs flash when the turn signal for that side is turned on. (Note: I had these installed by a BMW wrench, who installed them backwards; the yellow should go to the OUTSIDE of the bike.) |
|
|
|
All Hyperlites on
This shows the regular Hyperlites (above license) and the 3-way Hyperlights (down low). |
|
|
|
Rear Consipcuity
In addition to Hyperlites, I've added SOLAS tape (highly reflective for marine applications). I ordered it in squares, one of which is simply slapped on beneath the license plate. I also wrapped strips of it around the feet of the harley rack atop the topcase. Since it is silver, it is not noticeable at all in daylight, but adds more reflection at night. |
|
|
|
|
Muth signal mirror with small blind-spot mirror
The Muth signal mirrors flash in sync with the LT's turn signals. Although the lights look uneven here, they actually form a perfect "arrow" pointing the direction of the turn. The Muth mirrors are actually slightly more convex than the LT's stock mirrors, but I have added a small adjustable blind spot mirror to the upper inside corners anyway. |
|
|
|
Accu-Pressure tire caps
These little things are called "Accu-Pressure" and they replace your tires' regular valve caps. They give you a visual idea of the pressure in your tires. They come in various pressure settings; the ones I'm using are the 50 psi ones.
The way these work is that they have 3 color "displays" -- green means you are within 4psi of the designated pressure (so with my 50psi ones that's 46-50psi). Yellow means you're between 4psi and 10psi below the designated pressure (so in my case 40-46psi). Red means you're more than 10psi below the designated pressure (so in my case, below 40psi).
|
|
|
|
50psi Accu-Pressure on Front tire inflated to 42psi
I have Bridgestone BT020s, and generally accepted pressure is 48 rear, 42 front for these tires. By filling them to this pressure and sticking the 50psi AccuP's on them, I get a "yellow" on the front tire (which will turn to red if my pressure drops 2 psi to below 40psi).
|
|
|
|
50psi Accu-Pressure on Rear tire inflated to 48psi
By filling the rear tire to 48psi and sticking the 50psi AccuP's on it, I get a "green" on the back tire (which will turn to yellow
if my pressure drops 2psi to below 46psi). |
|
|
|
|
The infamous BMW Cupholder!
Seen here in action, this accessory is a marvel of German engineering (and is priced accordingly). When not in use, it folds up, but can easily be deployed with the push of the button on top.
|
|
|
|
Cupholder open but empty
To close, the two circular parts (the ring and bottom "cup") fold together so the "cup" is inside the ring, where it clicks in place (see next photo). |
|
|
|
Cupholder closed
To redeploy, simply push the button on top, and voila! It springs back to its open position. |
|
|
|
Cupholder theft deterrent
Since the BMW cupholder is so easy to remove, and is soooo cool that people might lose track of their better judgement when faced with the temptation, two carefully drilled holes and a zip-tie are just the thing to discourage the casual thief. |
|
|
|
|
Harley rack & bag
Available from Paul Sayegh, the Harley rack kit works like a charm, and the matching bag he sells with it (empty here) fits perfectly. |
|
|
|
Wudo/GG backrest
Although I love this backrest, I generally advise people to look into the Utopia backrest. Although I don't think it looks quite as nice as this one, the Utopia is substantially cheaper and is adjustable. Having ridden 1,700 miles on Dick Largen's LT with a Utopia, I can say it is an excellent backrest, and an all-around better choice. |
|
|
|
Wudo/GG backrest - rear view
One difference between this backrest and the Utopia is that the Utopia APPEARS to infringe more on the passenger's space. However, if the rider leans back at all against the Wudo/GG backrest, its support bar pushes straight back into the passengers crotch by an inch or two. I therefore find that I only really "use" (lean back into) this backrest when riding solo. |
|
|
|
Wudo/GG backplate
This is a replacement (temporary -- only takes about 15 minutes to switch back and forth) for the LT's topcase. It can be ordered painted to match your LT, and is very nice looking -- makes the LT look much "sleeker" and sportier. |
|
|
|
|
Wudo/GG backplate & backrest
|
|
|
|
Wudo/GG backplate
|
|
|
|
Wudo/GG backplate
|
|
|
|
Wudo/GG backplate
|
|
|
|
|
Wudo/GG backplate
|
|
|
|
Wudo/GG armrests
These are very sturdy and nice looking. One is up and one is down in this picture. |
|
|
|
Garage opener remote
The little button and LED atop the gas compartment cover are for a remote garage door opener. The actual remote is held underneath the steering stingray. I put this in this location both for easy access, and so I can easily remove it when I sell the bike (I just have to buy a new gas cover). |
|
|
|
Garage opener wiring
This connects the button & LED to the remote (hidden). Note that at someone's suggestion, I have now thoroughly wrapped both wires in electrical tape, just on the remote (pardon pun) chance that an electrical spark occurs when there is gas spilled nearby. |
|
|
|
|
Kenwood XL FRS radio
I do not recommend this radio OR this installation strategy, but thought I'd show it so you know what it looks like. For several reasons, I suggest Kenwood's regular "LH" radios instead of the XL, which has no digital display, and has a huge, non-removeable antenna. Although it can be powered by the bike (the reason I bought it), the LH model will run a day or two on one set of batteries, is much cheaper & easier to use due to its LCD display. |
|
|
|
Kenwood XL FRS on Saeng mount
I generally use the Kenwood LH (using batteries) instead of the XL (for reasons described in the earlier pic of the XL), and I generally use it on this Saeng mount, which works very well. |
|
|
|
Kenwood XL FRS on Saeng mount - side view
The attraction of the XL radio is that it has a power-back that allows it to be powered by the bike (instead of batteries). I personally don't recommend this setup. Get a Kenwood LH instead, and just use NiMH rechargeable AAs in it. |
|
|
|
Kenwood PTT "privacy" switch
This "push to talk" switch allows you to use your Kenwood FRS radio in conjunction with your Autocomm system. You can switch it to privacy mode so you can talk with your passenger, then back so your FRS bike-to-bike communication resumes. |
|
|